Friday, August 6, 2010
videos recovered
BTW, valuable footage from the drowned camera has now been recovered, and there will be more videos posted on the blog in places where I thought content was gonna be missing forever!
Saturday, July 31, 2010
Weekend market & Muy Thai
Today we went to Chatuchak Weekend Market. It's a big street market that sells just about anything: funny t-shirts, buddha statues, bubble guns, and all sorts of other things you'd never think you need, but you buy them anyway, because it's dirt cheap. I bought more items today than other day this year. Best shopping experience evaa!
At night we went to see a Muy Thai fight. For the price of $80 (which is A LOT for Thai standards), you get to see 12-16 year old boys fighting in the ring.
These kids are tough, having spent all their childhood training. This is their only hope to break it in this world. They have an amazing calmness and composure about them. They rarely look at each or the audience. At the beginning of each fight, the kids do a ceremonial dance which is basically free-form movement for them to warm up on the ring.
The fight itself is pretty tough. They're not allowed to stick together like they do in boxing, and the referee constantly breaks them up to make sure the intensity of the fight is high at all times. The first couple of fights were between 11-12 year olds, and the later, more professional fighters were up to 18-20 years old. The fights got more and more intense later on in the evening, the more experienced boxers were better at saving their energy, and when the time came to strike, they struck hard, occasionally with elbows, and sometimes even a roundhouse kick.
The fights end quickly, the winner walks off without ceremony. If there is ego involved, you can't see it, the fighters are emotionless from the beginning to the end.
It was an impressive show, and the 4 hours went by fast.
At night we went to see a Muy Thai fight. For the price of $80 (which is A LOT for Thai standards), you get to see 12-16 year old boys fighting in the ring.
These kids are tough, having spent all their childhood training. This is their only hope to break it in this world. They have an amazing calmness and composure about them. They rarely look at each or the audience. At the beginning of each fight, the kids do a ceremonial dance which is basically free-form movement for them to warm up on the ring.
The fight itself is pretty tough. They're not allowed to stick together like they do in boxing, and the referee constantly breaks them up to make sure the intensity of the fight is high at all times. The first couple of fights were between 11-12 year olds, and the later, more professional fighters were up to 18-20 years old. The fights got more and more intense later on in the evening, the more experienced boxers were better at saving their energy, and when the time came to strike, they struck hard, occasionally with elbows, and sometimes even a roundhouse kick.
The fights end quickly, the winner walks off without ceremony. If there is ego involved, you can't see it, the fighters are emotionless from the beginning to the end.
It was an impressive show, and the 4 hours went by fast.
Friday, July 30, 2010
Tuk-tuk
The best way to experience Bangkok traffic is in a tuk-tuk
Tuk-tuks are essentially 3-wheel motorcycles with a carriage for 2 passengers and a driver fitted on top. They take up half a lane of traffic, and make double the noise of a motorcycle.
You get the smell, the noise and the stress, all bundled up in one unforgettable experience, which you hope ends as soon as it begins.
The tuk-tuk drivers are ruthless machines with a nerve of steel. They get a flat rate, agreed upon in advance, so they're in a hurry to drop you off ASAP and get the next customer. The highlight of one such ride was a swerve into oncoming traffic along with some other motorcycles, in order to pass a slow truck. Who needs roller coasters anyway?
Tuk-tuks are essentially 3-wheel motorcycles with a carriage for 2 passengers and a driver fitted on top. They take up half a lane of traffic, and make double the noise of a motorcycle.
You get the smell, the noise and the stress, all bundled up in one unforgettable experience, which you hope ends as soon as it begins.
The tuk-tuk drivers are ruthless machines with a nerve of steel. They get a flat rate, agreed upon in advance, so they're in a hurry to drop you off ASAP and get the next customer. The highlight of one such ride was a swerve into oncoming traffic along with some other motorcycles, in order to pass a slow truck. Who needs roller coasters anyway?
Bangkok traffic
Most people have heard the horror storries of Bangkok traffic, supposedly it's the worst in the world. The legend goes that the police are trained in midwivery, because women end up having to give birth in traffic. Our first day in Bangkok, we saw massive, well-paved highways without potholes, which made us wonder whether the traffic could live up to the hype.
After coming back to Bangkok from Ko Samui, we finally got to witness the horror first hand. Despite the high quality of the roads, and even a decent public transport network, there are still waay too many vehicles on the road. Cars can be at total standstill for 10-15 minutes at a time, so if you're in a regular taxi and relatively close to home, you might be better off just getting off and walking. What adds to the chaos, however, is the large number of motorcycles and tuk-tuks, which take up less space on the road, and can maneuvre between regular cars, disregarding lane markets. This makes the roads much harder to navigate - any car game afficionado would tighten the grip on his controller. But this complexity doesn't phase Bangkok's finest motorcycle and tuktuk drivers. They're agressive and quick on the turns, they know the back alleys, and detours in case traffic gets more unbearable than usual. We were repeatedly amazed at how well the drivers knew the city, a skill forgotten in the western world since the introduction of GPS.
While we felt OK renting a moped in Ko Samui, riding around in one in Bangkok traffic would have been virtual suicide.
After coming back to Bangkok from Ko Samui, we finally got to witness the horror first hand. Despite the high quality of the roads, and even a decent public transport network, there are still waay too many vehicles on the road. Cars can be at total standstill for 10-15 minutes at a time, so if you're in a regular taxi and relatively close to home, you might be better off just getting off and walking. What adds to the chaos, however, is the large number of motorcycles and tuk-tuks, which take up less space on the road, and can maneuvre between regular cars, disregarding lane markets. This makes the roads much harder to navigate - any car game afficionado would tighten the grip on his controller. But this complexity doesn't phase Bangkok's finest motorcycle and tuktuk drivers. They're agressive and quick on the turns, they know the back alleys, and detours in case traffic gets more unbearable than usual. We were repeatedly amazed at how well the drivers knew the city, a skill forgotten in the western world since the introduction of GPS.
While we felt OK renting a moped in Ko Samui, riding around in one in Bangkok traffic would have been virtual suicide.
Full Moon Party
This entry is from Siavosh illustrated by yours truly:
We would have left Ko Samui earlier, but we had to wait for the Full Moon Party. The guide book referred to it as "Apocalypse Now without the war" - we didn't find an overweight Marlin Brando on the beach but we did find something just as grand.
The air is electric and I'm not just talking about the dangerously low hanging electrical wires or the coming lightning storm. After we disembark from our jaw-breaking speed boat ride from Ko Samui to it's smaller sister island of Ko Phangang, we wander through a maze of liquor vendors, bars, restaurants, and ominously, first aid clinics. We're among fellow foreigners here, or farang as the Thai call us. People from every stripe: Danish backpackers, Australian partiers, and even a handful of misplaced families with kids - no parenting awards handed out here tonight.
It's only early evening so the party hasn't started yet. Supposedly it all began as a birthday party thrown on the beach for a group of backpackers in the eighties. It grew quickly by word of mouth to a party that draws ten to twenty thousand hedonistic revelers and spectators from all around the world each month. The hype has been building since we first read about it back home, but we've been to enough over hyped parties to be skeptical.
Walking through the cramped damp alleys, everyone is unusually well behaved and pensive, quietly waiting for this unknown spectacle to begin. No one knowing what to expect of the party and more importantly, of themselves.
What's amazing is there's no security of any kind in sight. None of the bars, let alone the beach, has anyone resembling a bouncer or security guard. This seems to fit with the general mellow aspect of Thai culture but considering what is about to happen it seems like gross negligence. Or it's a testament that this international party really might be a Shangri-La of harmony and brotherly love, but I doubt it.
The dark clouds from earlier begin to drizzle just as the sun sets, but it does little to spoil the mood. If anything, it encourages greater consumption of the liquor buckets - literally buckets filled with a full bottle of your favorite liquor, cola, and strong Thai red bull.
Soon the beach begins to fill with the world's backpackers. The fire ropes are lit and the revelry begins to accelerate to the sand shaking thumps of electronic beats.
Within an hour, the relatively short stretch of beach fills with what I can only guess to be ten to fifteen thousand dancers and wallflowers soon to be joining in. The vibe is much akin to what you'd see in a rave, and the small army of Thai fire performers dance with spears and chains of fire as if they were glow sticks. To watch the motions of the fire is hypnotizing and makes you forget the thousands around you and the intensifying rain. The entire scene is best described as surreal.
By midnight the party is in full swing. Bumping into friends made earlier, we're told of a special shake being dispensed at the various stalls - and by special you can use your imagination. At this point the revelers fill the width of the beach, from dancing at the bar to standing knee high in the water relieving themselves. Among the fire dancers, we see a drunk fat British kid having no business swinging a chain of fire do just that, to the applause of his compatriots and the drunken stares of others. As the chain swings dangerously close to some unbeknownst skulls, we step back anticipating the worst.
And as expected, by around two o'clock, the vibe of certain parts of the party begin to morph into things more dark. Some drunken arguments can be overheard,crying girlfriends, and in the darker recesses of the beach, shady locals offering drugs or blatantly patting down the pockets of the most drunk-looking farang. And yet none of this slows down the pace of the party, too many vows have been made between friends to see the party through dawn or its end, whichever comes later.
As for us, I can only say we left earlier than we'd anticipated, four in the morning, just the peak we later learn. We were too sober to see the party through its stumbling end, and even a bit too weary.
The Full Moon Party, by design and circumstance is a party that unlocks every constraint of logistics, inhibition, intoxicants, size, control, and mob mentality. Isolated on a remote beach far away from home, it gives free license to one's imaginations. For one long night the wild can be themselves and the buttoned up can dance with fire. It's a party that makes anything you've seen in Las Vegas look like Disneyland. For some it whets the appetite for more, for others, it closes a door. It allows them to leave confident that they have experienced the end of the road of what any party can possibly be, and hence the pursuit ends. I think we were happily the latter.
 |
| clouds over Ko Samui as we leave for the party |
We would have left Ko Samui earlier, but we had to wait for the Full Moon Party. The guide book referred to it as "Apocalypse Now without the war" - we didn't find an overweight Marlin Brando on the beach but we did find something just as grand.
The air is electric and I'm not just talking about the dangerously low hanging electrical wires or the coming lightning storm. After we disembark from our jaw-breaking speed boat ride from Ko Samui to it's smaller sister island of Ko Phangang, we wander through a maze of liquor vendors, bars, restaurants, and ominously, first aid clinics. We're among fellow foreigners here, or farang as the Thai call us. People from every stripe: Danish backpackers, Australian partiers, and even a handful of misplaced families with kids - no parenting awards handed out here tonight.
It's only early evening so the party hasn't started yet. Supposedly it all began as a birthday party thrown on the beach for a group of backpackers in the eighties. It grew quickly by word of mouth to a party that draws ten to twenty thousand hedonistic revelers and spectators from all around the world each month. The hype has been building since we first read about it back home, but we've been to enough over hyped parties to be skeptical.Walking through the cramped damp alleys, everyone is unusually well behaved and pensive, quietly waiting for this unknown spectacle to begin. No one knowing what to expect of the party and more importantly, of themselves.
What's amazing is there's no security of any kind in sight. None of the bars, let alone the beach, has anyone resembling a bouncer or security guard. This seems to fit with the general mellow aspect of Thai culture but considering what is about to happen it seems like gross negligence. Or it's a testament that this international party really might be a Shangri-La of harmony and brotherly love, but I doubt it.
The dark clouds from earlier begin to drizzle just as the sun sets, but it does little to spoil the mood. If anything, it encourages greater consumption of the liquor buckets - literally buckets filled with a full bottle of your favorite liquor, cola, and strong Thai red bull.
Within an hour, the relatively short stretch of beach fills with what I can only guess to be ten to fifteen thousand dancers and wallflowers soon to be joining in. The vibe is much akin to what you'd see in a rave, and the small army of Thai fire performers dance with spears and chains of fire as if they were glow sticks. To watch the motions of the fire is hypnotizing and makes you forget the thousands around you and the intensifying rain. The entire scene is best described as surreal.
By midnight the party is in full swing. Bumping into friends made earlier, we're told of a special shake being dispensed at the various stalls - and by special you can use your imagination. At this point the revelers fill the width of the beach, from dancing at the bar to standing knee high in the water relieving themselves. Among the fire dancers, we see a drunk fat British kid having no business swinging a chain of fire do just that, to the applause of his compatriots and the drunken stares of others. As the chain swings dangerously close to some unbeknownst skulls, we step back anticipating the worst.
And as expected, by around two o'clock, the vibe of certain parts of the party begin to morph into things more dark. Some drunken arguments can be overheard,crying girlfriends, and in the darker recesses of the beach, shady locals offering drugs or blatantly patting down the pockets of the most drunk-looking farang. And yet none of this slows down the pace of the party, too many vows have been made between friends to see the party through dawn or its end, whichever comes later.
As for us, I can only say we left earlier than we'd anticipated, four in the morning, just the peak we later learn. We were too sober to see the party through its stumbling end, and even a bit too weary.
The Full Moon Party, by design and circumstance is a party that unlocks every constraint of logistics, inhibition, intoxicants, size, control, and mob mentality. Isolated on a remote beach far away from home, it gives free license to one's imaginations. For one long night the wild can be themselves and the buttoned up can dance with fire. It's a party that makes anything you've seen in Las Vegas look like Disneyland. For some it whets the appetite for more, for others, it closes a door. It allows them to leave confident that they have experienced the end of the road of what any party can possibly be, and hence the pursuit ends. I think we were happily the latter.
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Good weather
Today was the first day of good weather we've had since we arrived. It's sunny, the beach is picture perfect. Only now are we beginning to understand what the Thailand hype was all about.
The skies are clear and we're hoping to see the full moon tonight at the Full Moon Party. This is also the first time we're swimming (voluntarily), since we arrived
Wednesday, July 28, 2010
Diet
The food here is pretty good. The most typical dish is pad thai, and chicken curry. It's pretty hard to find anything vegetarian, but you can request any of your dishes without the meat. Amazingly by default you'll get meat for every single meal of the day. The food is actually not spicy by default, but you can add condiments, which are jalapenos, garlic, chili and other spiciness.
We loved the pad thai and the chicken curry for the first few days, but now we're trying to avoid it.
We loved the pad thai and the chicken curry for the first few days, but now we're trying to avoid it.
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
TV
The TV in our hotel is very international. We get cable and the channels include Deutche Welle, TVMonde, Al Jazeera, BBC, the Australian Network, an Indian channel and even some Dutch channel. Wow, I'm loving it.
Oh yeah, and there's these super bizzarre Thai cartoons:
Oh yeah, and there's these super bizzarre Thai cartoons:
Ladyboys
Thailand definitely has a very attitude towards gays, cross-dressers, and sex change operations. They seem to be accepted everywhere, including Buddhist temples. Imagine half the gay population in Europe or America either becoming a drag queen or having a sex change operation. This is what it looks like here. The term for that is ladyboy and is never spoken with negative connotations.
Unfortunately, I will not care to investigate this subject any further :)
Unfortunately, I will not care to investigate this subject any further :)
Monday, July 26, 2010
Motorbike
Today we rented a motorbike / moped. It is the most flexible and cheapest way to travel around the island. It costs an unbelievable $8 a day. In comparison a taxi ride one way is $12-$20, and lunch is $4-10. From now on we'll be counting the cost of anything in motorbike-days. We got our helmets and off we went to explore the island of Ko Samui - all the way around.
The bike allows us to get to places that would normally be out of reach, or simply those we didn't know anything about. We stumbled across a genuine seafood market in the middle of nowhere with no tourists. Freshly caught local fish, crab, shrimp, muscles, and squid.
We bought half a kilo of shrimp and had a neighboring stir-fry stall cook it for us with fantastic Pad Thai on the side.
Yumminesss!
Back on the circular road again and home before dark.
Luckily the traffic is not that difficult to navigate since there are hardly any intersections, there is one main circular road around the island, and the left-sided driving doesn't create issues - you just stay in the same lane until you find something good.
The bike allows us to get to places that would normally be out of reach, or simply those we didn't know anything about. We stumbled across a genuine seafood market in the middle of nowhere with no tourists. Freshly caught local fish, crab, shrimp, muscles, and squid.
Back on the circular road again and home before dark.
Luckily the traffic is not that difficult to navigate since there are hardly any intersections, there is one main circular road around the island, and the left-sided driving doesn't create issues - you just stay in the same lane until you find something good.
Saturday, July 24, 2010
The kayak accident
Today we went to Anthong National Marine Park. It's been the highlight of the trip so far, both good and bad. Anthong is this set of 42 uninhabited islands, very cliffy and picturesque.
The tour boat went for 2 hours and made 2 stops on the biggest and most interesting of the islands. The boat was very crowded, and even though the organizers were making an effort, it was clear there weren't enough staff to take care of business. They broke people up into groups, but it wasn't super clear what each group was supposed to be doing, we got life vests, and overheard from other people that this meant we were going kayaking. We got no safety instructions, or instructions on how to operate the kayaks (OK luckily we've both done this before), or what to bring with us. We're kind of rushed into the water and told to be back in 30 minutes ("Where are we actually going by the way?" - "Oh just follow the other boats").
We were the last people from the kayak group, and despite our best efforts, we couldn't really catch up with everyone else. To my surprise, there was noone spotting us in the back, there was only one safety boat in the front. OK fine, luckily I brought my camera with me, and we took some great footage from the boat. Unfortunatly, after about 15 minutes we lost track of the boats, and it started raining hard. F****ck! I can't belive they left us behind. But that's OK, we're two grown men, we can handle it. But the rain got worse, and the waves got bigger, clearly our kayak wasn't fit to handle this, we couldn't really keep it stable or gain any sort of speed towards the shore. Oh man, oh man, don't tell me ... I see Siavosh leaning over to the left, no this can't be happening ... Shiiiit!and we're capsized. I can't believe this.
It's not really that hard to stay afloat since we have life jackets, and we're holding on to the boat too, so I'm not worried about my life or anything like that, but my first thought is ... my camera. *$#* ;**$@!!
But it's too late. It's dead. 2 days of footage out the window.
Back to the story ... the weather is super bad, we can barely se the shore, but there's tour boats all over the place, and 5 minutes later they spot us and throw us a rope, and we're on board. Apparently we weren't the only ones. There was even a child in the water at some point. Man how negligent of them. The tour lead did ask us if we were OK, but it wasn't a big deal. Apparently this happens all the time. Needless to say we're soaked, I check my camera and it's indeed beyond recovery. Amazingly the cash in my wallet survives. Lunch tasted really good that day.
After this, we went to another island, which boasted a lake a fully enclosed by cliffs (it may just be the one they used in the movie The Beach). it was a 20 minute climb down steep and shaky steps, but the view was well worth it.
P.S. Most of the places in the blog marked for video or picture up to this point will remain blank for historical record.
Correction: the footage from the "drowned" camera has now been recovered!
Here's footage from our overcrowded "get people on shore" boat, followed by video taken 5 minutes before capsizing (notice the ominous clouds in the background).
The tour boat went for 2 hours and made 2 stops on the biggest and most interesting of the islands. The boat was very crowded, and even though the organizers were making an effort, it was clear there weren't enough staff to take care of business. They broke people up into groups, but it wasn't super clear what each group was supposed to be doing, we got life vests, and overheard from other people that this meant we were going kayaking. We got no safety instructions, or instructions on how to operate the kayaks (OK luckily we've both done this before), or what to bring with us. We're kind of rushed into the water and told to be back in 30 minutes ("Where are we actually going by the way?" - "Oh just follow the other boats").
We were the last people from the kayak group, and despite our best efforts, we couldn't really catch up with everyone else. To my surprise, there was noone spotting us in the back, there was only one safety boat in the front. OK fine, luckily I brought my camera with me, and we took some great footage from the boat. Unfortunatly, after about 15 minutes we lost track of the boats, and it started raining hard. F****ck! I can't belive they left us behind. But that's OK, we're two grown men, we can handle it. But the rain got worse, and the waves got bigger, clearly our kayak wasn't fit to handle this, we couldn't really keep it stable or gain any sort of speed towards the shore. Oh man, oh man, don't tell me ... I see Siavosh leaning over to the left, no this can't be happening ... Shiiiit!and we're capsized. I can't believe this.
It's not really that hard to stay afloat since we have life jackets, and we're holding on to the boat too, so I'm not worried about my life or anything like that, but my first thought is ... my camera. *$#* ;**$@!!
But it's too late. It's dead. 2 days of footage out the window.
Back to the story ... the weather is super bad, we can barely se the shore, but there's tour boats all over the place, and 5 minutes later they spot us and throw us a rope, and we're on board. Apparently we weren't the only ones. There was even a child in the water at some point. Man how negligent of them. The tour lead did ask us if we were OK, but it wasn't a big deal. Apparently this happens all the time. Needless to say we're soaked, I check my camera and it's indeed beyond recovery. Amazingly the cash in my wallet survives. Lunch tasted really good that day.
After this, we went to another island, which boasted a lake a fully enclosed by cliffs (it may just be the one they used in the movie The Beach). it was a 20 minute climb down steep and shaky steps, but the view was well worth it.
Correction: the footage from the "drowned" camera has now been recovered!
Here's footage from our overcrowded "get people on shore" boat, followed by video taken 5 minutes before capsizing (notice the ominous clouds in the background).
Ignorant insights
This was gonna be a whole separate blog, but I think the amount of volume doesn't justify it. So I'll just make it as one post. Here's some ignorant lines Siavosh & I came up with during the trip:
- I'm not much of a bus boy, but I don't think this bus ride is very comfortable
- I'm not much for rain checks, but I have a feeling this rain is not gonna stop any time soon
- I'm not a physician, but I think the law of gravity still appies here
- I'm not a magician, but I believe magic mushrooms are illegal in this country
- I'm not a dentist, but I think this car has a huge dent in it.
Friday, July 23, 2010
Dead island
We flew in to Ko Samui (or Koh Samui) after one night in Bangkok. We've been walking around for ages looking for something to do, but there's relatively few tourists. Restaurants are empty, our hotel complex apparently has noone else in it, and the salesmen are hanging on to tourists for dear life. They're not too annoying, in fact quite entertaining, but their desperation is apparent. The tripple whammy of the financial crisis, low season, and the recent Thai anti-government protests has taken its toll.
We went to the best beach on Ko Samui called Chaweng, and while it's a bit more lively than the rest of the island, it's still a bit dead, the beach is less impressive than what you'd see in Barcelona, and the cloudy skies have you wondering what the Thailand hype is all about.
The highlight of the day was a visit to Big Buddha Beach, although very cheesy, it's some sort of Thai flavor.
Another cute place is the Samui Robot. Since this is not Japan, the "robot" is just a piece of abstract part made out of metal.
We went to the best beach on Ko Samui called Chaweng, and while it's a bit more lively than the rest of the island, it's still a bit dead, the beach is less impressive than what you'd see in Barcelona, and the cloudy skies have you wondering what the Thailand hype is all about.
The highlight of the day was a visit to Big Buddha Beach, although very cheesy, it's some sort of Thai flavor.
Another cute place is the Samui Robot. Since this is not Japan, the "robot" is just a piece of abstract part made out of metal.
Thursday, July 22, 2010
International
We're in a vegan restaurant, listening to tracks from Talvin Singh and Shpongle. Next door is a Russian restaurant, and all around are Israeli travel agencies and evn a Chabbad House with dinner served for Shabbat.
It's very chill and nice, but it can be easy to forget we're actually in Thailand. Our waiter is Burmese and he's plugging his Indian neighbor's tailor suit shop. For some strange reason Thailand is a place you're supposed to get a tailored suit. Never even thought about getting one of those.
On our hotel television they're playing Mythbusters dubbed in Thai
It's very chill and nice, but it can be easy to forget we're actually in Thailand. Our waiter is Burmese and he's plugging his Indian neighbor's tailor suit shop. For some strange reason Thailand is a place you're supposed to get a tailored suit. Never even thought about getting one of those.
On our hotel television they're playing Mythbusters dubbed in Thai
Thailand: A reluctant beginning
So Aleks, is there going to be a Thailand blog? No way, these blogs are too much work, get off my case!
Ok ok, I guess maybe I got something to say anyway, I'm a bloggaholic.
First impressions of Bangkok, this place is MASSIVE, the capital of not only Thailand, but of all of Southeast Asia, its skyline stretches as far as the eye can see. The taxi ride from the airport was probably the longest I've ever taken - longer than 1 hour. The infrastructure is really fantastic. Highways, bridges, skyscrapers - on par with LA or New York. People drive on the wrong side of the street, just like England & Japan.
Ok ok, I guess maybe I got something to say anyway, I'm a bloggaholic.
First impressions of Bangkok, this place is MASSIVE, the capital of not only Thailand, but of all of Southeast Asia, its skyline stretches as far as the eye can see. The taxi ride from the airport was probably the longest I've ever taken - longer than 1 hour. The infrastructure is really fantastic. Highways, bridges, skyscrapers - on par with LA or New York. People drive on the wrong side of the street, just like England & Japan.
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